The shirt for her
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The shirt, now considered an essential garment for men and women, has had a path of evolution and cultural appropriation.
Initially conceived as an exclusively male garment, it has over time become a symbol of women's emancipation and style, evolving its meaning and use over the centuries.
The shirt has ancient roots, dating back to Roman and medieval times, when it was primarily used by men as an undergarment. During the Renaissance, the white linen or cotton shirt, often embroidered, established itself as a distinctive element of the aristocratic male wardrobe, visible under jackets or corsets. In the lower classes, it was a practical garment, worn to protect the skin from other, rougher fabrics.
Women, on the other hand, wore shirts similar to petticoats, often hidden under layers of elaborate dresses. Until the 19th century, the women's shirt remained relegated to a utilitarian function, associated more with underwear than a visible garment.
With the Industrial Revolution and the rise of the feminist movement, fashion began to reflect social changes. During the nineteenth century, some women began to wear men's cut clothing for reasons of practicality. Actress Sarah Bernhardt, famous for her nonconformist style, was one of the first to wear men's shirts in public, sparking scandal but also curiosity.
Meanwhile, the adoption of the shirt in women's wardrobes was also encouraged by work necessities. Women entering the working world, as typists or clerks, found plain shirts a practical and understated choice.
The 20th century saw the women's shirt transform from a symbol of practicality to a style icon. In the 1920s, Coco Chanel was a revolutionary figure who helped popularize the shirt as a women's garment. Chanel incorporated men's cut shirts into her clothes, often pairing them with pants, redefining women's clothing with a touch of androgynous elegance.
During World War II, women who replaced men in factories adopted functional clothing, including simple, comfortable shirts. After the war ended, the shirts remained popular, but were reinterpreted in a more elegant and refined key.
In the 1960s and 1970s, with feminist movements and the rise of ready-to-wear, the shirt became a tool to challenge gender norms. Designers such as Yves Saint Laurent contributed to this evolution, introducing items such as tuxedos and men's cut shirts into women's wardrobes. The white shirt became a symbol of power, sobriety, and modernity for women.
The shirt, once a symbol of male exclusivity, has transformed into an emblem of modernity and equality, combining functionality and style. Its evolution reflects the path of women's emancipation and the overcoming of cultural barriers, becoming a garment that no longer distinguishes between genders but enhances whoever wears it.